On Monday, July 27, we woke to more fog but left at 9:30 AM anyway for The Basin, 22 miles away on the eastern side of Casco Bay up the New Meadows River.  The fog remained thick all day, perhaps 100 yards of visibility, just enough to spot lobster traps.  We had a close encounter with 3 power boats, each about 35 ft long, speeding down the river in close formation without sounding fog horns or displaying lights.  They weren't monitoring their vhf  radios either, so unfortunately they missed out on my brief evaluation of their boating skills, intellects and probable geneology.

The Basin, 1/3 mile in diameter, is described as a “hurricane hole”, with protection from all directions.  This is good because thunderstorm warnings are being issued, with 70 MPH gusts and hail. But the storm we got was a short, hard rainfall, 15 knot winds and lightning.  Then the skies cleared.  We had a quiet night, waking to the sounds of lobster boats picking up some of the many traps nearby.  

After taking Ollie ashore, we departed for Boothbay in good conditions, 10 kt winds on our stern.  Having rounded Cape Small, we have left the Casco Bay area and have entered the “midcoast”, which includes the Kennebec, Sheepscot and Damariscotta Rivers, forming geographic cul-de-sacs to the north.  One can explore for days up any of  the rivers to cities like Bath, Wicasset, Newcastle and Damariscotta, but for now we will stay closer to the Atlantic.   The coastline has become more rugged, looking a lot like Canada on Lake Superior, with granite cliffs, pine tree forests and not many houses.  We saw a couple of seals and porpoises on the way.

The anchorage area in Boothbay is poor holding, so we took a mooring ball and dinghied to the city docks.  Boothbay is an active fishing town, with many lobster boats delivering their catch to the piers.  It is also a tourist haven, with many shops and restaurants.  All in all, a nice stop.  We had clam chowdah, fresh boiled lobstah and beer at the Lobster Wharf (previously the Co-op) which was great, of course.  Wednesday was a nice day, so we walked the town, reprovisioned at the grocery store, had lobster wraps and fried clams for lunch, and just relaxed on board for the afternoon.  Thursday, Carter walked to the Maine DNR Aquarium to pet the sharks there while Debbie stayed at the BHYC to relax and do laundry.   We are heading east again tomorrow, heading around the Permaquid Point and the west side of the Penobscot River.

We left York Harbor with a fast ebb at 6:30 and motorsailed from York Harbor in fair but cloudy  conditions on the 25^th, with light south winds bound for Portsmouth Maine, 38 miles away.  Bob was driving up from Marblehead to meet us   We picked him up at Portland Yacht Services and sailed directly to Jewell Island.  The island has a great anchorage for all winds but north, but is very popular on weekends.  Sure enough, it was crowded with both power and sailboats when we arrived.  We were able to drop anchor, however, at the entrance, which became very narrow at low tide but still had 7 feet of depth.  The island has structures left from WWII, including two observation towers for spotting German subs visiting our shorelines.  The reinforced concrete structures are still in very good condition, and the view from the top over Casco Bay is extraordinary.    After a quiet night, we motored back to Portland in a dense fog.  Bob and Francie disembarked, but we look forward to seeing them on our return trip.  Portland is a very active city, with lots of waterfront restaurants, shops and bars.  We walked to a Whole Foods two miles away to reprovision, and took a mooring ball for the evening.

We left Salem on July 21 with Francie aboard......pouring rain, moderate wind out of the east and seas of 2-4 ft.  We motorsailed to Newburyport, MA in the Merrimack River, which has a very swift current strengthened by heavy rains in the New Hampsire hills.  We approached during the height of the ebb tide, making only 2.5 kts....rolling easterly seas funneling into the river made for a wobbly approach. 

On July 21, the sky was overcast but dry, so we decided to take a walk-around Newburyport before casting off.  As we were tied to a face dock adjacent to the waterfront park. it seemed like a perfect idea to take O to the park for his morning constitutional.  When we arrived, we were greeted by a very friendly Newburyport-ian who had 2 little dogs on leads (Leo and McDuff).........we immediately agreed that a little off-leash romp would be good for all of us.  Well, Ollie and Leo (who is about 1 ft tall) hit it off immediately...........they ran circles around each, rolled in the grass together, pounced on each other and smiled and laughed themselves to near exhaustion.  The owner, Holly, and Debbie  were enjoying a good chat as she described this charming New England town.  As the boys were nearing the end of their play session, we learned that Holly is a writer and when she mentioned the name of her last book (Daughter of a Gerbil Farmer), Debbie realized that she had just read its review in People Magazine  Before Abacus left Newburyport, we had a copy of her book in tow.  Francie, also a writer,  is first up to read it.

We motor sailed north and spent about an hour circling several small, rocky islands (Isles of Shaols) about 5-10 mi off the coast of NH and ME.  These little islands are barely inhabited but have a unique and sometimes violent history and folklore.  We were tempted to anchor for the night, but decided to proceed north to York which is located up the York River........finally the sun broke out as we approached another challenging river entrance...........ebb tide against us again..........rocks everywhere, 4 kt current and 11 ft tide.  We would certainly never attempt some of these rivers in the fog or after dark or without current charts!  We entered a very charming small harbor filled with lobster boats and we tied up to a singular dock owned by 91 year old Mr Daniel Donnell who rents space out to transients.  A delightful Mainian with his distinctive Down East accent............he greeted us at the dock and helped us tie up.....gave us the lay of the land.....and did not forget to tell us that Mary, his daughter who lived next door sold fresh, live lobsters.  No question about "what's for dinner tonight?"!  Mary was kind enough to share her incredible, custom made lobster pot (a rectangular boiler made of welded stainless steel) , some shell crackers, picks and 3 of the most adorable lobsters you ever saw.  So fresh the lobster crackers weren’t needed -  just peel and eat!  What a feast!

We were planning on continuing to Porpoise Bay, a fishing harbor with limited anchorage,  but  a gale is expected,  tonight/tomorrow, ...actually looks like a Nor'Easter, so we will stay put here probably until Saturday the 25th, when the winds should shift S again.  Already we have walked some of the beautiful trails in the area, and York itself is another charming hamlet .........beautiful seaside inns abound and lobster huts everywhere.  What more could a sailor ask for?

On to Boston!  We sailed Abacus right into the inner harbor, right past the Old North Church, Faneuil Hall, the revitalized wharf and "Old Ironsides"....the historic frigate from the War of 1812.  The Boston Harbor is huge compared to NYC's harbor and it is dotted with multiple small islands that are now part of the National Park Service.  We sailed into the fork of the harbor that splits into the Charles and Mystic Rivers.......whereupon we were blocked by a  55 ft bridge that only let us peek down Debbie’s old Charles River where she used to sail at the MIT sailing club.  A great historic moment for her, who as a  lowly MGH student nurse had never guessed that several decades later she would be returning to Boston, by sea, on a beautiful Passport! 

After touring the harbor,  we sailed out to the islands outside the harbor and took a mooring off Peddock Isand.   One large Island, Spectacle Island, was created from the Big Dig diggings.   Debbie is re-reading The Mayflower by Philbrick....to re-trace that  ship's routes from Ptown to Plymouth.....and to imagine what it was like arriving on Cape Cod in November, after 10 weeks at sea! 

On July 12, we left Block Island in light fog for Cuttyhunk Island, one of our favorite places about 40 miles east.  We took a first come first serve mooring ball, dinghied in and hiked the islands rolling hills overlooking Buzzard’s Bay.  We continued on the next day for Onset, just before the Cape Cod Canal, 22 miles to the east and anchored in Onset harbor, avoiding the ebb tide/high southwest wind conditions which can be choppy.  The next day we motorsailed to Provincetown and anchored northeast of the breakwater.  Ptown was it’s usual unique self, with twosomes and even threesomes of all combinations walking hand in hand, late afternoon “tea parties” and theater billboards promising the unusual.  We left for  Scituate Harbor on July 15 in beautiful weather (as compared to last year, in a squall).  Scituate is a charming, small town located 25 miles south of Boston.  We took a mooring at the Scituate Harbor Yacht Club which operates a launch service to shore.    Neal, the 85 year old caretaker of the club was very helpful.  One of his responsibilities is to raise and lower the flag each day.   At 20:20, he informed the Club’s hostess that it was dusk and announced: “Attention to colors!”  Everyone in the Club dining room rose from their meals and stood as he fired the Club canon, (to Ollie’s delight) and lowered the flag.  There were strong storms in Cape Cod and Massachusetts Bays, so we were glad to stay tied up for an extra day.

On July 12, we left Block Island in light fog for Cuttyhunk Island, one of our favorite places about 40 miles east.  We took a first come first serve mooring ball, dinghied in and hiked the islands rolling hills overlooking Buzzard’s Bay.  We continued on the next day for Onset, just before the Cape Cod Canal, 22 miles to the east and anchored in Onset harbor, avoiding the ebb tide/high southwest wind conditions which can be choppy.  The next day we motorsailed to Provincetown and anchored northeast of the breakwater.  Ptown was it’s usual unique self, with twosomes and even threesomes of all combinations walking hand in hand, late afternoon “tea parties” and theater billboards promising the unusual.  We left for  Scituate Harbor on July 15 in beautiful weather (as compared to last year, in a squall).  Scituate is a charming, small town located 25 miles south of Boston.  We took a mooring at the Scituate Harbor Yacht Club which operates a launch service to shore.    Neal, the 85 year old caretaker of the club was very helpful.  One of his responsibilities is to raise and lower the flag each day.   At 20:20, he informed the Club’s hostess that it was dusk and announced: “Attention to colors!”  Everyone in the Club dining room rose from their meals and stood as he fired the Club canon, (to Ollie’s delight) and lowered the flag.  There were strong storms in Cape Cod and Massachusetts Bays, so we were glad to stay tied up for an extra day.

On July 12, we left Block Island in light fog for Cuttyhunk Island, one of our favorite places about 40 miles east.  We took a first come first serve mooring ball, dinghied in and hiked the islands rolling hills overlooking Buzzard’s Bay.  We continued on the next day for Onset, just before the Cape Cod Canal, 22 miles to the east and anchored in Onset harbor, avoiding the ebb tide/high southwest wind conditions which can be choppy.  The next day we motorsailed to Provincetown and anchored northeast of the breakwater.  Ptown was it’s usual unique self, with twosomes and even threesomes of all combinations walking hand in hand, late afternoon “tea parties” and theater billboards promising the unusual.  We left for  Scituate Harbor on July 15 in beautiful weather (as compared to last year, in a squall).  Scituate is a charming, small town located 25 miles south of Boston.  We took a mooring at the Scituate Harbor Yacht Club which operates a launch service to shore.    Neal, the 85 year old caretaker of the club was very helpful.  One of his responsibilities is to raise and lower the flag each day.   At 20:20, he informed the Club’s hostess that it was dusk and announced: “Attention to colors!”  Everyone in the Club dining room rose from their meals and stood as he fired the Club canon, (to Ollie’s delight) and lowered the flag.  There were strong storms in Cape Cod and Massachusetts Bays, so we were glad to stay tied up for an extra day.

We stayed in Sandy Hook until July 6^th and headed for New York City.  As usual, the East River passage was very entertaining, dodging the water taxis, ferries and barges.  We proceeded under the Throgs Neck Bridge to Manhasset Bay (Port Washington) and stayed for 2 nights.  Manhasset Harbor is the 2nd largest yachting harbor on LI Sound.  Mooring balls are free for 2 days!.  This was great because at midnight, we had a huge electrical storm with gusts over 40.  A lot of rockin and rollin............poor Ollie was so bewildered....he kept looking to Mom and Dad for assurance that we were going to survive. 

Port Washington is a cute, up-scale little town with lots of cool restaurants and good walking.  There is even a West Marine which is always good for a look-around.  We have enjoyed our stay  but pulled out for a short 15 mile sail north to Greenwich, CT.  to visit our friends Sandy and Dick.  They arranged to us to take a mooring ball at Indian Harbor Yacht Club, a wonderful facility set in front of fabulous single family dwellings on the surrounding hills.   

After a brief driving tour of the Greenwich Academy (a classic, heavily wooded girls day school) where Sandy teaches, Sandy dropped us off at the top of Greenwich Avenue, a.k.a. “Rodeo Drive”, where one will find the best stores of New York City without having to go there.   (Saks, etc).  Ollie was in heaven, a kindred “----oodle” on every corner.   Apparently, Regis, Mary Tyler Moore, Kathy Lee Gifford (and Frank, too), Glenn Close, Mel Gibson all reside in Greenwich.. 

We had a great dinner at Dick and Sandy’s beautiful home (including a scenic model railroad room created by Dick, and a Sandy’s working greenhouse) followed by a nightcap aboard Abacus. 

In the morning, we motored into east winds and waves 25 miles to Port Jefferson on Long Island to a good, deep water anchorage next to a protected bird sanctuary.  The full enclosure side curtains we added in Annapolis kept us warm and dry as we crossed the sound.

On July 10^th, we crossed back over to the Connecticut side to the Connecticut River, about 45 miles of sailing and motor sailing close to the north east winds.  We stayed at the Old Lime Dock Company, a marina with all of 13 slips, but situated below a large estate with a helicopter in the front yard, the commuting vehicle of choice I guess, and two life size plastic Clydesdales in the carefully manicured lawn.   Old Lyme apparently has much old money and some very nice real estate.

Brother Portis and his wife Laura were returning from Cape Cod to New York City, which brought them right by the marina (which was next to I95).  They stopped for a couple of hours to visit, which was fun. Portis was driving our mother’s 1971 4.5  litre Mercedes SEL, beautifully restored and maintained. 

The next morning, we left at 7 am for Block Island, about 40 nautical miles.  Being a Saturday, we wanted to arrive early to get a mooring ball because bad weather is expected after midnight.   No such luck.  We arrived at noon, but the harbor master advised that they were full.  Hundreds of boats were moored and anchored, which is typical of Block Island in the summer.  We dropped a hook in 35 feet of water, but we were offered a mooring ball at 3 pm, which we took.    Storms on the way. 

Our two weeks in Annapolis were very productive, with the full enclosure and davits being finished on the last day before our departure.   Pam brought Ollie during the weekend of the 20^th.   We joined the Wagners aboard their 51 ft Passport Elwing for the Wednesday night harbor race, but the wind died and the race was called.  Ben and Karen from SC joined us on the 27^th, and the next morning we departed for the Sassafras River, about 35 miles north.  The Sassafras is pretty with bluffs and large houses on each side.  A few too many powerboats around, however, causing wakes until late evening.

The following morning we sailed up the Chesapeake and Back Creek to the C&D canal, where we dropped sails and motored with a 3 knot lift from the ebb tide to the Delaware Bay.   We enjoyed sailing in clear and sunny conditions to the Cohansey River, about 20 miles down the bay on the NJ side.  The river has deep water and strong currents through marshlands for 5 miles up to Greenwich (pronounced like sandwich) where we anchored.  It was a Monday so everything was closed (no one available to explain this locally).  We dinghied Ollie to solid ground for his shore duties and settled in to watch the anchor as we swung in the tide and strong current.  The next morning, we caught the tide out to the Delaware and proceeded to Cape May.  Conditions picked up a bit as we rounded the Cape on the outside of the reefs (we don’t take the “local knowledge” passage inside by shore) and stopped at South Jersey Marina (“follow the last two small markers in the harbor, turn right at the large commercial fishing boat shipyard and left at the Lobster House restaurant”).  Reprovisioned, we anchored in front of the Coast Guard training center on July 1.  The 210 foot CG vessel Dependable was dressed up for a change in command ceremony (on July 1) and the coming holidays and visitors.  . 

On July 2, we departed for Atlantic City, about 35 miles.  We pulled into the Farley State Marina which is located in front of Harrah’s.  Lots of activity, bands playing, etc for the holiday weekend.  Ben helped me get the dinghy up on the deck and secure the motor in anticipation of our offshore passage to Sandy Hook.   Ben and Karen picked up a rental car (an adventure) to return to Maryland to see family and recover their own car.  We all rose at 5 am on July 3, and we were off.  Perhaps they will rejoin us on our return trip!

We had 85 miles to cover to Sandy Hook, and we wanted to arrive early enough to get Ollie ashore in daylight.  We enjoyed fast motor sailing, and were missed by a couple of thunderstorms, but arrived at 4:30 pm in good time at Atlantic Highlands.  Anchoring proved difficult, however, due to hard mud on the bottom, 20 knot winds and a heavy chop.    On the fourth try, we finally got it to hold.   After a long day, we were too tired to stay up for the nearby fireworks. 

On July 4, we woke up to a clear, warm, windy (10-20 knots, gusts to 25) day, so we dinghied Ollie to a beach for a good romp, which he needed.  Debbie hopped on her new fold up dock bike for a long ride, and I walked Ollie to town, which keeps him connected to his “metro” side.   Debbie made the now famous Portuguese Clam Boil dish and we settled back to watch a glorious sunset followed by fireworks displays around the whole New Jersey coast.  Then New York City lit up with its fireworks as a backdrop to the skyline and the Verrazano Bridge.